Derby shoes

Here you'll find Goodyear welted derbys by Skolyx, Yanko and TLB Mallorca. A derby shoe is recognised by its open lacing, in comparison to an oxford who has a closed lacing. On a derby the tongue is an extension of the so-called vamp which is the widest part of the shoe. If you have a high instep (high ankle) a derby can fit well since the lacing is more flexible. 

In general a derby model is a bit less formal than an oxford, but it also depends on colour, decoration, last shape and so on. A black derby without brogueing is a relatively formal shoe.

All shoes from Skolyx, Yanko and TLB Mallorca are made in Spain with a Goodyear welted construction to be easily resoleable and made in high quality full grain leather.

What is a derby shoe?

Derbys are characterised by so-called open lacing, where the side parts of the shoe, the quarters, which the lacing holes are in, run on the outside of the tongue, which merges into the so-called vamp of the shoe, across its widest part. The lace parts run vertically towards each other all the way, as opposed to oxford shoes with closed lacing where the tongue is a separate part underneath the quarters, forming a V down towards the vamp. Derbies come in a variety of styles, from more dressy black versions to very casual shoes with double rubber soles, round lasts and, for example, embossed grain leather.

Where do derbys come from?

As is often the case, it's unclear how the shoe model developed and what the name derives from, but they seem to have been established in the 19th century, and often the 14th Earl of Derby is credited with the naming, as he needed open laced footwear to work with his high instep. Other stories go back even further, but in almost all cases it's the change in fit from oxfords with closed lacing that is seen as the reason the shoe type was developed. In the 19th century, the derby model became a popular shoe type for more casual leisure footwear, not least various country models with brogue patterns and similar, which were used during hunting and things like that. Derbys has a variety of names. In the United States they are often called bluchers, although that is actually a term for derby shoes which have the lace parts attached onto the top of a vamp joint with the quarters. In the UK, the model is sometimes referred to as the Gibson.

How formal is a derby shoe?

Derbys are generally considered a more casual shoe model than oxfords, and are therefore seen as a very versatile shoe type that bridges dress shoes and even more casual shoes like sneakers and similar. However, a lot of the level of formality depends on things other than the basic model itself, colour of leather, type of leather, last shape, type of sole and so on. A black derby in smooth calf leather with a single leather sole is perceived as relatively formal, while a sturdy longwing brogue derby with a double rubber sole, storm welt and embossed grain leather on a wide round toe last is clearly casual.

For whom is a derby shoe suitable?

Derbys are often said to be more comfortable than oxford shoes, and the reason for that is mainly the open lacing which makes it more flexible in fitting more different foot types. Especially people with high insteps, high ankles, would be wise to choose derbies in the first place for the best comfort.

Can I wear derby shoes with a suit?

The short answer is: yes! The long answer is that you can, but it depends on the type of derby shoe you have and the type of suit you are wearing. An informal brown flannel suit will go with just about any derby model, while a dark blue suit in thin, fine wool might go well with derbys of a more formal nature, such as a plain toe in black or dark brown calfskin.