Oxfords

Here you'll find Goodyear welted oxford shoes from Skolyx, Yanko and TLB Mallorca. The oxford is generally considered the most formal shoe model, though of course it depends on pattern and leather. An oxford shoe is recognised through the so-called closed lacing, where the tongue is attached on the inside of the shoe and only visible on the top of the shoe front and through a potential glitch at the lacing. 

Among our offerings you’ll find several different oxford models with or without brogueing (the decorative perforations in the leather) and with leather soles or rubber soles. The most formal model is the plain cap toe oxford in black leather, which we offer in various make-ups with both leather and rubber sole. 
All shoes from Skolyx, Yanko and TLB Mallorca are made in Spain with a Goodyear welted construction to be easily resoleable and made in high quality full grain leather.

What is an oxford shoe?

Oxfords are characterised by their closed lacing, which means that the two side parts, the quarters, of the shoe go completely together towards the vamp of the shoe, and the tongue is attached separately on the inside. This means that oxfords are generally perceived as more elegant and dressy, but of course a lot also depends on the shape of the shoe, the type and colour of the leather, the model and whether it has a brogue pattern, for example, and so on. The closed lacing of oxfords can be compared to the other most common type of lace-up shoe, called derby, which have an open lacing where the vamp of the shoe continues up to become the tongue itself, while the quarters where the lacing is located are placed on the outside.

How formal is an oxford shoe?

The oxford shoe is basically a relatively formal shoe, but if it is made on a rounder last in suede, with a rubber sole and a brogue pattern, then you have an informal and casual shoe. So a lot depends on the design. The most formal models are the plain cap toe oxford and the wholecut oxford in black calfskin, these are traditional dress shoes that are most correct, for example, with the dress code Formal/Dark Suit. Brown oxfords become less formal, especially in lighter shades, suede or embossed grain leather become less formal, and more pattern in the form of brogueing, for example, also reduces the level of formality.

Should the lacing be completely closed on oxfords?

That the lacing must come together completely on a pair of oxfords, otherwise the fit is wrong, is a common misconception. In fact, when testing a new pair of oxfords, you don't want the lacing to close fully, as you always want to leave some margin for the shoes to stretch a bit over time, for your foot to vary a bit in size throughout the day and depending on the season, and so on. It is recommended to have a gap at the top of the lacing of between 0.5-1.5 cm approximately. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a small gap also when the shoes are broken in and it's chilly so your feet are smaller, however a very large gap of two cm or more can mean that the instep is too low for you, especially if you find it a bit uncomfortable.

Where do the oxford shoe come from?

The oxford model in some form has been around since the 17th century, and the name oxford derives from the Oxonian boot model, an ankle-high boot that first had slits and lacing on the sides, but where the lacing was later moved to the front of the boot, and it was then cut lower and lower until it became a shoe. It was students at the University of Oxford in England in the 19th century who popularised the model, where it was part of challenging the common dress standards with uncomfortable knee-high boots and similar. Often called the Balmoral in the US, and the Richilieu in France.

Do I have to own a pair of black oxfords?

You often hear that every man should own a pair of black plain cap toe oxfords. The reason for this is that it's the shoe type that is considered most correct in certain contexts, such as with the dress code Formal / Dark Suit, or at funerals. Nowadays it works well for most people to wear other shoes to these occasions, but if you want to show the most zealous that you are on top of things and follow the "rules", a pair of black plain cap toe oxfords is definitely something to own. Also black wholecuts are basically comparable in formality, so if you like that model better, you can definitely opt for this instead.